From machining the dial and carefully applying the enamel to creating distinctive decorations such as perlage or hand engraving, and finally assembling the timepiece, every stage reveals the singular beauty of our creations. Step inside the UKIYO workshop and discover how they are brought to life.
Every UKIYO dial begins as a sheet of solid silver. Using a manual metal lathe, the sheet is carefully machined into a perfectly circular disc. A precise hole is then drilled at its centre to allow the hand arbor to pass through.
The front surface of the dial is carefully machined to create an ideal base for decoration and enamel application. The reverse is likewise prepared to receive the counter-enamel, ensuring the stability and durability of the assembly. Finally, the dial feet, also made by hand from solid silver, are individually soldered into place with precision to ensure a perfect fit with the movement.
Once the dial has been machined, the decoration can begin. To enhance the brilliance of the enamel and maximise the reflection of light, the front surface is first polished to a mirror finish. This polishing is essential to reveal the full depth and luminosity of the finished dial.
Different decorative techniques are applied depending on the model:
Perlage, a traditional watchmaking decoration, consists of a regular series of overlapping circular motifs that add a subtle texture to the metal and catch the light.
Crystallisation is achieved through an extremely precise kiln-firing process that causes crystalline structures to form naturally on the metal surface. Every result is unique, creating a fascinating play of light.
Engraving is carried out entirely by hand using a graver. Inspired by natural frost patterns, the technique sculpts the dial with fine incisions, creating a soft and shifting brilliance reminiscent of light reflecting from a frozen surface.
Enamelling is a pivotal stage, when the dial truly begins to come alive. I use the cloisonné technique, in which fine gold or silver wires are fixed to the dial surface to create a design. These wires form individual compartments that are then filled with enamel.
Using a fine brush, I apply the enamel by hand within each area, working to achieve an even surface without bubbles or hollows. It is a slow and precise process that demands consistency in both texture and colour.
The piece is then fired in a kiln at approximately 750°C. The enamel melts and vitrifies, and its colours gain depth. Several firings are required to achieve the desired result, with each passage through the fire revealing more of the dial’s final beauty.
After firing, the enamel surface is slightly uneven and may appear granular or matte. To reveal its full depth and brilliance, every dial is carefully polished by hand. The process takes place in several stages using diamond discs with progressively finer grits until the surface is perfectly smooth.
The final polish is achieved with cerium oxide, an ultra-fine powder used in watchmaking and jewellery to produce a mirror finish. This last step gives the enamel its full radiance.
